tysontrips

17, August, 2005

South In America

Maybe it's just that I am more acutely aware of things when I am traveling, but in the last 24 hours I have had a couple of 'there's something you don't see every day' moments. The first was, "Damn, that is the biggest bathroom I have ever seen." This was at an enormous bus rest stop about three hours after leaving the city of Sao Paulo. Actually, it took an hour and a half just to get through the city limits so it was about 90 minutes after finally hitting the road. And it was about 45 minutes after I swallowed some sleeping aids for the 12-hour overnight bus ride to the south of Brazil. So that could explain my slow motion gawking at the 30 or so empty bathroom stalls flanked by the Great Wall of Urinals.

10 hours later, at 8 am, I climbed off the bus and onto this enchanting island called Ilha Santa Catarina. The island is roughly the size of Manhattan (well maybe two or three Manhattans). And because they share so many other characteristics I think I will use Manhattan as a comparison. Instead of Manhattan's many neighborhoods, this island is covered in majestic green lagoons. Rather than skyscrapers, Ilha Santa Catarina boasts soaring mountains, which tower over the ocean and lagoons. Manhattan has millions of inhabitants covering every square inch of the island. Ilha Santa Catarina is shrouded in dense Atlantic rainforest (and the trees don't push you and yell "Hey, watch out, ya douche!" when you try to walk past them). Instead of being encircled by polluted rivers like Manhattan, Ilha is ringed with white sand beaches. Manhattan: Dumpsters; Ilha: Sand dunes. NYC: Trash boats to garbage island; Ilha: Whales and dolphins. Etcetera.

lagoon
Above: Lagoon

My second superlative moment took place when stepping onto a nearly empty beach today, save for one man flying a kite by himself. I could barely see it as it flew higher than any kite I ever remember gazing at. Again, maybe I am just more aware of the simple things now. It's my first day on the road and already I am at peace with the world, the fast pace and grime of Sao Paulo and my job are distant memories. A major bonus to traveling the south now is that, as it is winter, low season is here. Not a tourist to be found. For me, that means low prices on accommodations without even bargaining, no waiting in lines, empty beaches and buses and extreme tranquility. What I giving up is 10 degrees Fahrenheit or so. It's only in the mid-70s.

At this point I am about as far south as I am going to trip, nearly 30 degrees latitude south (my destination is Olympia, Washington, about 46 degrees north). I have decided to skip out on visiting Uruguay for the moment. There are several reasons for this decision. #1: The week before I left Sao Paulo I spent two full days running all over town trying to extend my visa and learning what Brazilian bureaucracy is all about. During this process I realized it would be a bad idea to leave Brazil and try to come back. I might be denied entry. #2: Uruguay might be "South America's.....boring". I try not to be too quick to judge places I have never been to, but based on what I have read and heard, Uruguay has not carved out an image as historically or culturally profound as some of the other countries in South America. As my brother put it, "If you are into statues of 17th century Spanish 'heroes' on horses, Uruguay is the place for you." #3: If I am really excited about cold weather, hearing Spanish with an Italian accent and statues of horses, I might as well just head into Argentina. I am close right now anyway.

But rather, I think I am more ready to head north. Despite the clean, well-planned cities and absolutely gorgeous people (I am in the same state the Brazilian model Giselle is from if that gives you any idea), I think I need to try out another (warmer) part of Brazil. I can hardly fathom this area of Brazil and I had never conceptualized it before I came down here. It's difficult to get used to seeing locals of obviously Northern European heritage marching around the streets in South America. This is one of the few places in the world I have been where the people come right up to me and ask me directions or questions in their native tongue as if I am a local (Germany and Sweden were other places where this occurred). Even in Sao Paulo, with its diversity, I was never given a second glance based on my looks. While being asked these questions is fun (and awkward when people hear my response, which probably sounds like it was uttered by a mental patient—they usually just pat me on the back and head the other direction) I've got a beach fetish that needs to be attended to. Yes, there are tons of amazing empty beaches down here. But I am picky. Until I find that perfect one, the search is on. It's a tough job, but I will do it without complaining.

praia rosa
Above: Another day, another immaculate, empty, white sand beach (yawn)